The
Etosha National Park in the northern parts of Namibia, 150km south of
the border with Angola, covers an area of more than 22,000 square
kilometers, larger than the Kruger National Park in South Africa.
About 25% of the park is the huge Etosha Pan, originally a lake fed
by the Kunene River. Over thousands of years the course of the river
changed, leaving a pan in the form of a large dusty depression of
salt and clay which fills only temporarily during heavy summer rains.
This temporary water attracts thousands of wading and migratory birds
such as flamingos and white pelicans. The perennial springs along the
edges of the Etosha Pan also draw large concentrations of wildlife
and birds. With dimensions of more than 100 kilometers in length and
half that in width, the largest salt pan in Africa is a visible
landmark from outer space!
History
of Etosha National Park
The
early European explorers and traders discovered the Etosha area in
the 1850s when Charles Anderson and Francis Galton visited it.
Relentless hunting of the area’s game ensued until 1907 when Dr von
Lindequist, then the governor of German South West Africa, proclaimed
three reserves to protect the land and seasonal migrations. These
boundaries held until the 1960s when Etosha National Park was shrunk
to its present size.
The rest of the national park, away from the pan, is flat terrain with a variety of habitats ranging from mopane woodland to wide, open grassland plains with very few trees. In the east of the park, around Namutoni, the attractive Makalani Palms are found, often in picturesque groups around waterholes.
It is the bush and grasslands surrounding the pan that provide habitat for 114 mammal species, 340 bird species, 110 reptile species, and 16 amphibian species. These include large numbers of zebra, springbok, blue wildebeest, oryx (gemsbok), eland, elephants, lions, leopards, and to our surprise, giraffe. Black rhino, one of the rare species, also thrive here.
Black-faced
impala are one of the rarest animals in the region, while the unusual
Damara dik-dik is the park’s smallest antelope.
All
of the larger felines are found in Etosha, with good numbers of lion,
leopard, cheetah and caracal. Also found in the park are both spotted
and brown hyenas, silver jackal (or cape fox), and the more common
black-backed jackal – many of which can be seen in the late
evening, skulking around the camps in search of scraps of food.
Birding
is probably best during the rainy season (January to March). After
good rains the salt pan fills with water attracting huge flocks of
flamingos, white pelicans and even blue cranes. The world’s largest
bird, the ostrich, and the heaviest flying bird, the kori bustard,
are common sightings. Fairly common amongst the birds of prey are
bateleur, martial, tawny and Wahlberg’s eagles, black-breasted and
brown snake eagles. Lappet-faced and white-backed vultures are also
common here, outnumbering the odd pair of white-headed or hooded
vultures.
When
and why Ramsar
Etosha
Pan and its associated smaller pans, about 25% of the area inside the
Etosha National Park, was designated as a Ramsar wetland on 19 June
1995. This unique, vast landscape is of international importance due
to the biological diversity of the pans and its surrounds. The parks
supports populations of several rare and endangered large mammals
such as black
rhinoceros, African elephants and roan antelope. The
pan also serves as a breeding ground for flamingos in good rainy
seasons.
Game
and bird viewing, as well as photography, will be the most important
reasons why Etosha is one of the most popular attractions in Namibia.
The game viewing in Etosha National Park is excellent, the best time
being from May to September - the cooler and drier months in Namibia.
Most
visitors are self-drive overlanders, or tourist operators with big
4x4 trucks. Roads inside the park are good gravel roads, accessible
by most sedan vehicles - the exception may be during the rainy season
when slippery roads may require more suited vehicles.
Etosha
National Park can be entered via the 3 main gates: Von Lindequist
Gate (near Namutoni rest camp) west of Tsumeb; King Nehale Gate
southeast of Ondangwa; and Anderson Gate (near Okaukuejo rest camp),
north of Outjo. The park has three
main rest camps that
connect Anderson
Gate in
the south with Von
Lindequist Gate in
the east. These camps offer a range of self-catering accommodation
options from chalets to campsites. Swimming pools, restaurants,
convenient shops, fuel stations and floodlit waterholes are standard
facilities at all 3 camps.
Okaukuejo
is famous for its floodlit water hole where rhino
and elephant are
regularly seen side by side. Etosha’s busiest camp offers chalets
with views of the waterhole and is structured around a tall stone
tower.
Halali
is centrally located in the park within close proximity of some of
the most popular waterholes. The waterhole at Halali has the
reputation of attracting leopard, especially at night time. The camp
has the largest swimming pool in the park.
Namotoni
is a former German fort. The tall white protective walls of the fort
give this camp a unique personality.
Situated
deeper in the park are two exclusive, luxury camps – Dolomite and
Onkhoshi. At Dolomite Camp in the western parts of the park, guests
are accommodated in permanent luxury tents with an elevated view over
the endless plains. Onkoshi Camp with only 15 free standing luxury
chalets, has unparalleled views over the eastern Etosha Pan which
attract thousands of flamingoes and other waterbirds during the rainy
season.
Many
guests choose to stay at lodges outside the park boundaries or to use
a combination of the privately owned establishments along with a few
nights inside the park - allowing them to experience the best of both
worlds. Many of these privately owned establishments offer private
game drives, either in their own game reserves or in Etosha National
Park itself. 4
E.
Special
Etosha
National Park is
unique in Africa. The park’s main characteristic is a salt pan so
large it can be seen from space. Yet there is abundant wildlife that
congregates around the waterholes, giving you almost guaranteed game
sightings. At the same time Etosha National Park is one of the most
accessible game reserves in Namibia and Southern Africa.
The
park is malaria free, accessible in a regular sedan car and the rest
camps provide a range of accommodation as well as restaurants,
viewing decks, shops and fuel stations. Luxurious camps in
Etosha’s remote areas have now added top end accommodation to the
park’s offerings.
Date
of visit: 22–25 June 2016